Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (Aurangabad) is often called the City of Gates. The old city was once enclosed by walls pierced by dozens of gates, of which a handful of the grand gateways survive along with some smaller ones. Paired with Soneri Mahal, a seventeenth-century palace that now houses a museum, they make a rewarding half-day heritage walk through a side of the city many visitors miss on their way to the caves.
Soneri Mahal: the golden palace
Soneri Mahal stands at the foot of the hills in the Jaisingpura area, near the campus of Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Marathwada University. It was built in the 1650s by Pahadsingh, a Bundela Rajput chief who served the Mughals, and it blends Rajput and Mughal ideas: a symmetrical, rectangular two-storey building with columned balconies, set in a walled garden with a pool and gateway.
The name means golden palace, and tradition says its rooms were once decorated with paintings made with real gold. Little of that shimmer remains, but the proportions are graceful and the setting, with hills rising behind, is lovely in the soft light of morning or late afternoon.
The palace now houses a museum, with a regional gallery displaying sculpture, coins, pottery, terracotta and other finds from sites across Marathwada. It is a compact collection but a good primer on the layers of history you will meet at Ellora, Daulatabad and Paithan. The palace grounds have also hosted the Ellora Ajanta festival, with performances staged against its lit facade.
The City of Gates
The walled city took shape in the seventeenth century. Malik Ambar, the Nizam Shahi minister, founded the town then called Khadki in the early 1600s, and it later became Aurangabad under the Mughals, when Aurangzeb, as governor and then emperor, strengthened it with walls to guard against Maratha raids. Each gate controlled a road leading out to another town, and many carry the names of those destinations.
Many gates have been lost to the growth of the modern city, and others survive in varying states of repair. Here are a few worth seeking out:
- Bhadkal Gate: the grandest of them, built by Malik Ambar in 1612 to mark a victory over the Mughals. Its tall arch and bastions stand near the ruins associated with his palace, Naukhanda.
- Delhi Gate: facing north on the old road to Delhi, a stately gateway near the gardens of Himayat Bagh.
- Paithan Gate: facing south towards Paithan, smaller and now surrounded by busy market streets.
- Mecca Gate: on the western side, leading towards Begumpura, the area around Bibi Ka Maqbara.
- Roshan Gate and Jalna Gate: on the eastern side, the latter restored in recent years.
Gate names and exact counts vary from source to source, so treat any number you hear as approximate. What matters is the pattern: a medieval city defined by its thresholds.
A suggested walking route
Traffic is the main challenge, so combine walking with short auto or cab hops.
- Start early at Soneri Mahal, when the museum opens and the garden is quiet.
- Head towards Makai Gate and Mecca Gate on the way to Begumpura, glancing at the old lanes around them.
- Continue to Bhadkal Gate, the highlight of the walk, and linger to look at its arches and stonework.
- Walk into the old city through the bazaars towards Paithan Gate, stopping for tea and a snack.
- Finish at Delhi Gate in the north before heading back, or detour to Panchakki if you have time.
Allow three to four hours at an easy pace, including the museum.
Tips for the walk
- Go in the morning, from October to February if possible; afternoons can be hot.
- Wear comfortable shoes and carry water. Pavements are uneven and roads are busy.
- Many gates stand in the middle of traffic. Take photos from a safe spot and cross roads with care.
- The old city is a living place, not an open-air museum; ask before photographing people and shops.
- Check museum opening days and timings in advance, as they can change.
- A local heritage guide adds a great deal, pointing out details and stories you would easily walk past.
Why it is worth doing
The caves and forts around the city are spectacular, but the gates tell the story of how ordinary life was organised here for centuries. Walking under an arch that has watched traders, soldiers and pilgrims pass for four hundred years is a quietly powerful experience.
Hiranya is about 30 minutes from the city centre, on Mombatta Lake at Daulatabad, so the heritage walk fits easily into a stay that also covers Ellora and the fort. Our team can suggest a route and help arrange a guide for the morning.
